TITLE 18. PROFESSIONAL AND OCCUPATIONAL LICENSING

BOARD FOR BARBERS AND COSMETOLOGY

Final Regulation

Title of Regulation: 18VAC41-20. Barbering and Cosmetology Regulations (amending 18VAC41-20-200, 18VAC41-20-210, 18VAC41-20-220).

Statutory Authority: § 54.1-201 of the Code of Virginia.

Effective Date: September 1, 2024.

Agency Contact: Kelley Smith, Executive Director, Board for Barbers and Cosmetology, 9960 Mayland Drive, Suite 400, Richmond, VA 23233, telephone (804) 367-8590, FAX (866) 245-9693, or email barbercosmo@dpor.virginia.gov.

Summary:

The amendments (i) lower the training hours for the cosmetology license to a minimum of 1,000 hours and (ii) add topics and performances required to align the regulation with the cosmetology scope of practice in the Code of Virginia, assigning hour minimums to each topic listed in the curriculum. Changes since proposed include (i) correcting typographical errors, (ii) correcting miscalculations regarding the number of required performances of sculptured nails, and (iii) clarifying and streamlining language to bring the regulation in line with the statutory scope of practice for cosmetology and the reduced minimum hours requirement.

Summary of Public Comments and Agency's Response: No public comments were received by the promulgating agency.

18VAC41-20-200. General requirements.

A barber, cosmetology, nail, or waxing school shall:

1. Hold a school license for each and every location.

2. Hold a salon license if the school receives compensation for services provided in its clinic.

3. Employ a staff of and ensure all training is conducted by licensed and certified barber, master barber, cosmetology, nail technician, or wax technician instructors, respectively.

a. Licensed and certified cosmetology instructors may also instruct in nail and waxing programs.

b. Licensed and certified esthetics instructors and master esthetics instructors may also instruct in waxing programs.

4. Develop individuals for entry level competency in barbering, master barbering, cosmetology, nail care, or waxing.

5. Submit its curricula for board approval. All changes to curricula must be resubmitted and approved by the board.

a. Barber curricula shall be based on a minimum of 1,100 clock hours and shall include performances in accordance with 18VAC41-20-220.

b. Master barber curricula shall be based on a minimum of 400 clock hours and shall include performances in accordance with 18VAC41-20-220.

c. Dual barber/master barber program curricula shall be based on a minimum of 1,500 clock hours and shall include performances in accordance with 18VAC41-20-220.

d. Cosmetology curricula shall be based on a minimum of 1,500 1,000 clock hours and shall include performances in accordance with 18VAC41-20-220.

e. Nail technician curricula shall be based on a minimum of 150 clock hours and shall include performances in accordance with 18VAC41-20-220.

f. Wax technician curricula shall be based on a minimum of 115 clock hours and shall include performances in accordance with 18VAC41-20-220.

6. Inform the public that all services are performed by students if the school receives compensation for services provided in its clinic by posting a notice in the reception area of the shop or salon in plain view of the public.

7. Conduct classroom instruction in an area separate from the clinic area where practical instruction is conducted and services are provided.

8. Possess the necessary equipment and implements to teach the respective curriculum. If any such equipment or implement is not owned by the school, then a copy of all agreements associated with the use of such property by the school shall be provided to the board.

18VAC41-20-210. Curriculum requirements.

A. Each barber school shall submit with its application a curriculum, including a course syllabus, a detailed course content outline, a sample of five lesson plans, a sample of evaluation methods to be used, and a breakdown of hours and performances for all courses to be taught that will lead to licensure. The outline for barbering shall include the following:

1. School policies;

2. State law, regulations, and professional ethics;

3. Business and shop management;

4. Client consultation;

5. Personal hygiene;

6. Cutting the hair with a razor, clippers, and shears;

7. Tapering the hair;

8. Thinning the hair;

9. Shampooing the hair;

10. Shaving;

11. Trimming a moustache or beard;

12. Applying hair color;

13. Analyzing skin or scalp conditions;

14. Giving scalp treatments;

15. Giving basic facial massage or treatment;

16. Sanitizing and maintaining implements and equipment; and

17. Honing and stropping a razor.

B. Each barber school seeking to add a master barber program shall submit with its application a curriculum, including a course syllabus, a detailed course content outline, a sample of five lesson plans, a sample of evaluation methods to be used, and a breakdown of hours and performances for all courses to be taught that will lead to licensure. The outline for master barbering shall include the following:

1. Styling the hair with a hand hair dryer;

2. Thermal waving;

3. Permanent waving with chemicals;

4. Relaxing the hair;

5. Lightening or toning the hair;

6. Hairpieces and wigs; and

7. Waxing limited to the scalp.

C. Each school seeking to add a dual barber/master barber program shall submit with its application a curriculum, including a course syllabus, a detailed course content outline, a sample of five lesson plans, a sample of evaluation methods to be used, and a breakdown of hours and performances for all courses to be taught that will lead to licensure. The outline for dual barber/master barber program shall include the following:

1. School policies;

2. State law, regulations, and professional ethics;

3. Business and shop management;

4. Client consultation;

5. Personal hygiene;

6. Cutting the hair with a razor, clippers, and shears;

7. Tapering the hair;

8. Thinning the hair;

9. Shampooing the hair;

10. Styling the hair with a hand hair dryer;

11. Thermal waving;

12. Permanent waving with chemicals;

13. Relaxing the hair;

14. Shaving;

15. Trimming a moustache or beard;

16. Applying hair color;

17. Lightening or toning the hair;

18. Analyzing skin or scalp conditions;

19. Giving scalp treatments;

20. Waxing limited to the scalp;

21. Giving basic facial massage or treatment;

22. Hair pieces;

23. Sanitizing and maintaining implements and equipment; and

24. Honing and stropping a razor.

D. Each cosmetology school shall submit with its application a curriculum, including a course syllabus, a detailed course content outline, a sample of five lesson plans, a sample of evaluation methods to be used, and a breakdown of hours and performances for all courses to be taught that will lead to licensure. The outline for cosmetology shall include the following:

1. Orientation and business topics - minimum of 45 hours of instruction:

a. School policies;

b. State law, regulations, and professional ethics Management;

c. Personal hygiene; and Sales, inventory, and retailing;

d. Bacteriology, sterilization, and sanitation. Taxes and payroll;

e. Insurance;

f. Client records and confidentiality; and

g. Professional ethics and practices.

2. Manicuring and pedicuring: a. Anatomy and physiology; b. Diseases and disorders; c. Procedures to include both natural and artificial application; and d. Sterilization Laws and regulations - minimum of 10 hours of instruction.

3. Shampooing and rinsing General sciences - minimum of 55 hours of instruction:

a. Fundamentals; Principles and practices of infection control;

b. Safety rules; [ Material ] Safety Data Sheet [ (MSDS) (SDS) ]; and

c. Procedures; and d. Chemistry, anatomy, and physiology Chemical usage and safety.

4. Scalp treatments: a. Analysis; b. Disorders and diseases; c. Manipulations; and d. Treatments. Applied sciences - minimum of 40 hours of instruction: Anatomy, physiology, and histology.

5. Hair styling: Shampooing, rinsing, and scalp treatments for all hair types, including textured hair - minimum of 25 hours of instruction:

a. Anatomy and facial shapes; Client consultation and analysis; and

b. Finger waving, molding, and pin curling; c. Roller curling, combing, and brushing; and d. Heat curling, waving, and pressing Procedures, manipulations, and treatments.

6. Hair cutting Hair styling for all hair types, including textured hair - minimum of 65 hours [ of instruction ]:

a. Anatomy and physiology Fingerwaving, molding, and pin curling;

b. Fundamentals, materials, and equipment; Roller curling, combing, and brushing; and

c. Procedures; and d. Safety practices Heat curling, waving, and pressing.

7. Permanent waving-chemical relaxing: Hair cutting for all hair types, including textured hair - minimum of 125 hours [ of instruction ]:

a. Analysis; Fundamentals, materials, and equipment; and

b. Supplies and equipment; c. Procedures and practical application; d. Chemistry; e. Recordkeeping; and f. Safety Procedures.

8. Hair coloring and bleaching: Permanent waving and chemical relaxing for all hair types, including textured hair - minimum of 115 hours [ of instruction ]:

a. Analysis and basic color theory; Chemistry;

b. Supplies and equipment; and

c. Procedures and practical application [ ; ] d. Chemistry and classifications; e. Recordkeeping; and f. Safety.

9. Skin care and make-up: Hair coloring and bleaching for all hair types, including textured hair - minimum of 160 hours [ of instruction ]:

a. Analysis; Basic color theory;

b. Anatomy; Supplies and equipment; and

c. Health, safety, and sanitary rules; d. Procedures; e. Chemistry and light therapy; f. Temporary removal of hair; and g. Lash and brow tinting Procedures and practical application.

10. Wigs, hair pieces, and related theory - minimum of 15 hours [ of instruction ]:

a. Sanitation and sterilization;

b. a. Types; and

c. b. Procedures.

11. Salon management: a. Business ethics; and b. Care of equipment Straight razor use and shaving - minimum of 20 hours [ of instruction ].

12. Manicuring and pedicuring - minimum of 75 hours [ of instruction ]:

a. Nail theory, nail structure, and composition;

b. Nail procedures, including manicuring, pedicuring, and nail extensions; and

c. Electric filing.

13. Skin care - minimum of 160 hours of instruction:

a. Client skin analysis and consultation;

b. Effleurage and related movements and manipulations of the face and body;

c. [ Cleansings Cleansing ] procedures;

d. Masks;

e. Extraction techniques;

f. Machines, equipment, and electricity;

g. Manual facials and treatments;

h. Machine, electrical facials, and treatments; and

i. General procedures and safety measures.

14. Makeup - minimum of 35 hours of instruction:

a. Setup, supplies, and implements;

b. Color theory;

c. Consultation;

d. General and special occasion application;

e. Camouflage;

f. Application of false lashes and lash extensions;

g. Lash [ and ] tinting;

h. Lash perming;

i. [ Lightning Lightening ] of the hair on the body except scalp; and

j. General procedures and safety measures.

15. Body and other treatments - minimum of 20 hours of instruction:

a. Body treatments;

b. Aromatherapy; and

c. General procedures and safety measures.

16. Hair removal - minimum of 35 hours of instruction:

a. Client consultation and analysis;

b. Waxing;

c. Mechanical hair removal;

d. Tweezing and threading; and

e. Chemical hair removal.

E. Each nail school shall submit with its application a curriculum, including a course syllabus, a detailed course content outline, a sample of five lesson plans, a sample of evaluation methods to be used, and a breakdown of hours and performances for all courses to be taught that will lead to licensure. The outline for nail care shall include the following:

1. Orientation:

a. School policies; and

b. State law, regulations, and professional ethics;

2. Sterilization, sanitation, bacteriology, and safety;

3. Anatomy and physiology;

4. Diseases and disorders of the nail;

5. Nail procedures (i.e., manicuring, pedicuring, and nail extensions); and

6. Nail theory and nail structure and composition.

F. Each waxing school shall submit with its application a curriculum, including a course syllabus, a detailed course content outline, a sample of five lesson plans, a sample of evaluation methods to be used, and a breakdown of hours and performances for all courses to be taught that will lead to licensure. The outline for waxing shall include the following:

1. Orientation:

a. School policies;

b. State law, regulations, and professional ethics; and

c. Personal hygiene.

2. Skin care and treatment:

a. Analysis;

b. Anatomy and physiology;

c. Diseases and disorders of the skin;

d. Health sterilization, sanitation, bacteriology, and safety, including infectious disease control measures; and

e. Temporary removal of hair.

3. Skin theory, skin structure, and composition.

4. Client consultation:

a. Health conditions;

b. Skin analysis;

c. Treatments;

d. Client expectations; and

e. Health forms and questionnaires.

5. Waxing procedures for brow, lip, facial, legs, arms, underarm, chest, back, and bikini areas:

a. Fundamentals;

b. Safety rules; and

c. Procedures.

6. Wax treatments:

a. Analysis;

b. Disorders and diseases;

c. Manipulations; and

d. Treatments.

7. Salon management:

a. Business ethics; and

b. Care of equipment.

G. A licensed school with an approved barber, master barber, dual barber/master barber, cosmetology, nail technician, or wax technician program may conduct an assessment of a student's competence in the respective profession and, based on the assessment, give credit toward the hours requirements specified in the respective subsection of this section and 18VAC41-20-220.

The school shall make the assessment based on a review of the student's transcript and the successful completion of a board-approved competency examination administered by the school. The school may also request a copy of a catalog or bulletin giving the full course description when making the evaluation. The number of credit hours awarded shall not exceed the actual hours of instruction verified on the transcript or the number of hours specified in the board-approved curriculum for a specific topic.

18VAC41-20-220. Hours of instruction and performances.

A. Curriculum and performance requirements shall be offered over a minimum of 1,100 clock hours for barbering, 400 clock hours for master barbering, 1,500 clock hours for dual barber/master barber program and, 1,000 hours for cosmetology, 150 clock hours for nail care, and 115 clock hours for waxing.

B. The curriculum requirements for barbering must include the following minimum performances:

Hair and scalp treatments	10
Hair services	320
Hair coloring (including tinting, temporary rinses, and semi-permanent color)	35
Basic facials	5
TOTAL	370

C. The curriculum requirements for master barbering must include the following minimum performances:

Bleaching and frosting	10
Cold permanent waving or chemical relaxing	25
Hair shaping	50
Wig care, styling, placing on model	5
Finger waving and thermal waving	30
TOTAL	120

D. The curriculum requirements for dual barber/master barber program must include the following minimum performances:

Hair and scalp treatments	10
Hair styling services	320
Bleaching and frosting	10
Hair coloring (including tinting, temporary rinses, and semi-permanent color)	35
Cold permanent waving or chemical relaxing	25
Hair shaping	50
Wig care, styling, placing on model	5
Finger waving and thermal waving	30
Basic facials and waxings	5
TOTAL	490

E. The curriculum requirements for cosmetology must include the following minimum performances:

Hair and scalp treatments	10
Hair styling	320
Tinting	15
Bleaching and frosting	10
Temporary rinses	10
Semi-permanent color	10
Cold permanent waving or chemical relaxing	25
Hair shaping	50
Wig care, styling, placing on model	5
Finger waving and thermal waving	30
Manicures and pedicures	15
Basic facials and waxings	5
Sculptured nails, nail tips, and wraps	20
TOTAL	525
Shampooing, rinsing, and scalp treatments, for all hair types, including textured hair	20
Hair styling, for all hair types, including textured hair	60
Hair cutting, for all hair types, including textured hair	60
Permanent waving-chemical relaxing, for all hair types, including textured hair	60
Hair coloring and bleaching, for all hair types, including textured hair	50
Wigs, hair pieces, and related theory	5
Straight razor shaving on face and neck	12
Manicuring and pedicuring	15 procedures
Individual sculptured nails and nail tips	[ 3 full sets 30 ]
Body and other treatments	[ 10 5 ]
Makeup	[ 30 20 ]
Skin care	[ 20 15 ]
Hair removal	15
TOTAL	[ 360 367 ]

F. The curriculum requirements for nail care must include the following minimum performances:

Manicures	30
Pedicures	15
Individual sculptured nails and nail tips	200
Individual removals	10
Individual nail wraps	20
TOTAL	275

G. The curriculum requirements for waxing must include the following minimum performances:

Arms	4
Back	2
Bikini area	6
Brows	12
Chest	1
Facial (i.e., face, chin, and cheek and lip)	6
Leg	3
Underarm	2
TOTAL	36

FORMS (18VAC41-20)

Barber - Master Barber - Barber Instructor Examination & License Application, A450-1301_EXLIC-v18 (rev. 5/2022)

Nail Technician – Nail Technician Instructor Examination & License Application, A450-1206_07EXLIC-v19 (rev. 5/2022)

Wax Technician – Wax Technician Instructor Examination & License Application, A450-1214_15EXLIC-v18 (rev. 5/2022)

Cosmetology – Cosmetology Instructor Examination & License Application, A450-1201_04EXLIC-v21 (rev. 5/2022)

Temporary Permit Application, A450-1213TEMP-v3 (rev. 12/2021)

License by Endorsement Application, A450-1213END-v18 (rev. 9/2022)

License by Endorsement Application, A450-1213END-v19 (rev. 9/2024)

Individuals – Reinstatement Application, A450-1213REI-v13 (rev. 9/2022)

Salon, Shop, Spa & Parlor License/Reinstatement Application A450-1213BUS-v16 (rev. 9/2022)

Salon, Shop & Spa Self Inspection Form, A450-1213_SSS_INSP-v2 (eff. 5/2016)

Instructor Certification Application, A450-1213INST-v17 (rev. 10/2022)

Student Instructor – Temporary Permit Application A450-1213ST_TEMP-v4 (rev. 12/2021)

School License Application, A450-1213SCHL-v18 (rev. 5/2023)

School Reinstatement Application A450-1213SCHL-REIN-v9 (eff. 9/2022)

School Self-Inspection Form, A450-1213_SCH_INSP-v5 (eff. 1/2022)

Licensure Fee Notice, A450-1213FEE-v11 (rev. 9/2022)

Change of Responsible Management Application, A450-1213CRM-v6 (rev. 12/2021)

Training Substitution Form, A450-1213TR_SUB-v1 (rev. 10/2021)

Training Verification Form, A450-1213TR-vs1 (eff. 5/2022)

Experience Verification Form A450-1213EXP-v2 (eff. 7/2022)

Barber-Cosmetology Universal License App A450-1213ULR-v1 (eff. 7/2023)